Ambix Spirits
Sebastopol is renowned for the Gravenstein apple, and rightfully so. Yet the growing conditions that make this West Sonoma County region perfect for the famous heirloom are favorable for an almost unlimited range of pome fruit varieties, something you can experience during a visit to Ambix Spirits. Founded in 2019 by fermentation-obsessed scientists David Klein and Zoe Osborne, Ambix is not simply a top-notch producer of French-inspired apple brandies, but also a pomological experiment of sorts. With more than 300 varieties of apples, crabapples, pears, and quince growing amid tidy, undulating rows on the couple’s 4-acre farm near the Laguna de Santa Rosa, Ambix is arguably one of the most innovative apple growers in the county. In this Member Spotlight, we chat with David about how they went from the Silicon Valley to Sebastopol, forging a path rooted in tradition and motivated by curiosity.
Ambix Spirits, 1944 High School Road, Sebastopol, ambixspirits.com
Tastings and tours by appointment, Friday, Saturday & Sunday, 12-4pm
****
How did you get interested in farming/start your business?
Zoe and I have always been interested in the processes behind making beer, wine, and cider. We started as homebrewers and cidermakers in the late 1980s and got very active in the early community as we were all re-learning these lost skills, and eventually we started organizing and judging events, but we never had interest in a commercial brewing and in the ‘90s the idea of a cidery never crossed our minds. We also loved the connection between the orchard and the cider, and even in our small suburban bungalow on a busy street, we had 14 apple trees in our front yard.
About 15 years ago we started to explore distilling and fell in love, especially with apple brandy. It is an amazing way to literally distill a crop to its essence, and so in 2019 we decided to make the leap.
Farming, fermentation, and distilling have always been tightly linked. Cider and brandy making are really just methods to preserve a crop. For us, it is a natural fit to grow our own apples, and so we planted a four-acre orchard with over 300 different types of apples, pears, and quince to be able to make unique apple brandy that showcases what Sonoma County brings to these heritage apples.
What do you find most rewarding about your work?
Honestly, the orchard has become our passion. We initially planted it to support the distillery but with so many different apples, each with unique needs and character, we find ourselves spending much of our time just enjoying caring for and watching the trees and fruit develop.
What do you value about being a member of Farm Trails?
Farm Trails is an amazing way for the world to learn about small producers like us. It is also a great community who has been welcoming and helped us learn as we make mistakes and get our feet under us. We have been amazed and inspired by Farm Trails and its members, and it has been a large part of our success.
What are your hopes for the future of your business and/or Sonoma County ag?
Our hope for the future is growing strength and resiliency through diversity.
There are not many apple brandy producers out there, especially those who also manage an orchard with hundreds of different types of apples. On one hand, it’s a little crazy, but on the other hand, through Farm Trails, we have met so many other growers who are also pursuing their own unique passions and don’t worry if it’s crazy or not.
This is what excites us most about Farm Trails and Sonoma County. Ultimately, we are all fighting commodification and concentration. Mass production of one type of crop or product in an area exposes us to risks from changing environments and market trends, and frankly it can get a bit boring. The greatest strength of a community of small farms is the diverse nature of our crops, which leads to resiliency and the ability to adapt to changing conditions.
What advice would you give a new farmer/someone starting out in your line of business?
Don’t compromise. There are much easier ways to earn a living and plenty of mega-producers will dominate the market with mediocre produce and products. Focus on being the best you can be and have fun doing it.
Photos by Kelsey Joy Photography: kelseyjoyphotography.com
